Per the GFC forum, it's not a good idea to run stronger gas struts to lift the roof panel the mounts can shear right off. So I've taken the ski box off.
So even though I posted all the how to stuff below, you probably shouldn't
Will need to add stronger lift struts, but I'm really happy with how this turned out.
Starting off, I painted the upper part of the Yakima Skybox with Aluminum Rustoleum paint. But it was way too shiny and showed any imperfection in the plastic. So I got the idea to thin some black gloss Rustoleum and spray it with a too large tip on my HVLP spray gun. I wanted a slight splatter look, and it looks kind of cool I think. Should be easy to touch up in with a black spray can in the future, when low hanging limbs scratch it up more.
In the slideshow you'll see the exact parts I used, but in summary, I found square ubolts that are meant for boat trailers that perfectly go around the GFC beef rack bars. The problem with GFC roof rack bars is the lack of clearance between the bars and the white roof panel, but the square ubolts slipped under fine.
I think I need to lengthen the slot opening a little, so I can move the box back just a few inches more, for aerodynamic purposes. Other than that and adding the strong gas lift struts, I'm happy with how this turned out. Gives me a secure place to add stuff and lock it out of sight.
minor update, got the 0.3m cable for the bmv712 battery monitor. Seeing how it has bluetooth, I don't need to read the monitor much, just need to be able to reach it to stop the beeping.
23 Aug 2022
almost done with the victron stuff. the solar mppt charger controller is working now, and the dc/dc charge controller is working. the dc/dc has to be wired to the ignition, but I was able to use a relay spot off the BANTAM spod controller that's mounted right near the boxes in the the truck bed on the driver side.
I'll do a final video when it's all done. Here are the slideshow updates, click here
20 Aug 2022
Install day!
First got the back wall in the truck. A tricky manuever. And there's enough clearance I can still check and tighten the bolts for the camper struts behind the wall. Overcutting the window opening will actually help with that, so I'll just pretend I meant to cut the opening that tall, lol. The 3 holes in the upper left are for running wiring outside in the future. 1 will be used right away for the solar panel I'm adding.
Next I got the boxes close to in place, notice the pipes are not between the boxes yet.
And last but not least, the pipes are now in place with the wiring routed between the boxes. I then had to connect the 6 awg lines from the inverter on the right (the big blue box) to the ac/dc distribution panel in the middle left of the box on the left. I pretty much was laying on my stomach most of the time in the 90 degree heat, but at least I was in the shade.
Tomorrow I have 4 things left to do
1--make another video explaining the stuff above.
2--add the battery box on the right hand side in front of the big blue inverter.
3--drill a 2.5" hole in the drive side GFC panel for the shore power receptacle
4--add the solar panel and wire it in.
The first 3 tasks should only take an hour or so. The solar panel will take awhile because I have to building a supporting frame out of 80/20 aluminum, but I did a test fit, and I LOVE how it looked. Here's hoping the 80/20 stuff works the way I hope/plan.
19 Aug 2022
wiring is almost done and ready for install in the truck. Here's a video.
I did find one photo showing the details of the box construction more. the box is upside down in this photo which helps. The face frame is mortised together with 3/8" thick x 1.5" wide x 1" long tenons. 3/4" inch thick poplar I had lying around. Very strong. The side plywood pieces are just miter cut in the corners, glued and nailed, so what gives the box the strength are the pocket screws connecting the plywood sides to the face frame. The pocket holes are then covered with wood plugs (you can just use dowels too). I trim the wood plugs over the pocket holes with my oscillating saw and then sand flush. You have to cut high, or you'll marr the bejeezus out of the plywood. Any oopsies get covered with wood filler.
Finally, you can see the back of the face frame with the T-nut hammered in place. This was done before adding the plywood sides via the pocket holes. Because the 5/16" star knobs are on the other side, it pulls the t-nut into the wood more when tightening the star knob down. They work great, very secure.
The rabbet cut in the back will first receive a 1/2" thick piece of Azek white board. and then there's still enough room for 3/4" thick plywood scrap to act as a mounting block/receivers. I may even french cleat the 3/4" plywood blocks. I'll paint the Azek before putting in the boxes. Just easier that way. I'll screw the azek in place from the back into the rabbets. the lip is a 1/2" deep so should be doable.
and yes one of those mitered joints is awful below.... but no one will see the inside, so idc.
6 Aug 2022
Let the electric madness begin! I'm following plans and videos from Explorist Life, click here Very thankful they've put up such good content. Just spend $10 for the plans if you're going to try and do this yourself.. It's worth it.
Also, I got my Victron stuff from Battle Born. Contact them. Tell them what you're doing, and order through them too. They'll pre-configure your system for you. I also went over the plans with them, and they gave me a few tips that will probably save me some headaches (time will tell), but they're the experts, so trust them. Things will vary depending on how many batteries you're using.
This slide show explains more on what I've been doing, click here
The face frames of these boxes are mortise and tenoned together. the sides have pocket holes that screw into the face frames, which makes the boxes quite strong. The corners of the plywood sides are just miter cut, glued and nailed. The bottom of the boxes are dadoed/rabbeted so there's enough room for a 1/2" thick Azek panel to mount the stuff to, and behind the 1/2"thick panel room for 3/4" thick mounting blocks.
There's no way to install all this stuff on the wall piece in the basement and then carry it into the GFC camper. The grey coin laminate wall board piece on the bottom has to go into the camper separately. It has go in kind of horizontal to get over the wheel wells in the truck bed, and then you angle it up to make it the back wall. After that I'll carry in these boxes and mount them to grey coin wall. There will be mounting blocks already in place on the wall to make things easier.
Last note, I should have taken more photos of the box making process. but before the plywood sides were screwed to the face frames, I drill 3/8" holes through the face frames and then hammered in t-nuts on the back side of the face frame. I'm going to get some plexiglass to cover these boxes and I'll use 5/16" star knobs that thread into the t-nuts to hold the plexiglass in place. I'll add some tint film to the plexiglass so it's not easy to see what's in the boxes. I just need to be able to see through the plexigass enough to see the led lights on them, which tell me if things are running ok. The boxes have numerous holes for 3" diameter soffit vent covers, so the electric components can breathe and bleed off the heat. the boxes are deep enough too, so I can mount things on 1/2" thick wood strips so the heat fins on the back won't directly touch the white Azek back panels. A lot of thought went into this.
Anyway, next comes painting. I also need to make a battery box, so I can paint that too.
the t-nut and star knobs I was talking about above.
I test drove after getting the sensors in and the adaptive cruise is working again too. Sensors seemed fine when parking, but I may need the dealer to recalibrate the adaptive cruise unit. I got a pre-collision alert while I was still a half car length behind a vehicle, as I slowly rolled up behind a car at a red light. Better to be too soon than too late though I guess.
The sensor wires wouldn't reach the driver side holes in the front bumper. So you have to carefully cut off the tape and pull back on the wire loom until you get enough slack and separate the wires more as needed. I think it was a problem on one or two of the holes on the rear bumper too, but it was so much easier back there it's barely worth mentioning.
Luckily I had some extra wire loom, so I was able to re-cover the wires after separating things as needed. You'll need extra loom. Frankly, it was a pain to do the wire separation with the bumper on. Live and learn. If you're reading this before you install this bumper. Plan ahead.
The front driver side outermost housing was the worst. Also had to do it for the driver side inner housing. The passenger sides ones were mostly ok. The driver side inner housing had to be lengthened to get it around and away from the winch motor, which gets super hot when used. That one I lengthened a lot, but it was easier than the driver side outermost one.
I'll update the blog photo after I get the grille reinstalled tomorrow, but figured this one works for now. Had to remove the grille for the wire work I mentioned above. The wires were under the radiator.
I test drove this on the highway and it's fine. No noticeable wind noise vs just the Thule wind fairing alone. Might even help some.
Doesn't vibrate or whistle at any speeds between 0-70mph.
This is a 100 watt panel. It's on a carbon fiber backing so it's only like 5-10 lbs. Super strong. I wanted a solar panel for trickle charging my victron/battleborn system. Should be enough to offset any parasitic draw
I used 2020 aluminum stuff (like 8020 but smaller) to make the frame to support it. Never tapped anything before, but aluminum is easy to tap, don't let that scare you off.
the downside is that this adds up quick. $400-500 for the solar panel and double that for all the Thule stuff, but I had the Thule stuff already from a previous car I had. The Victron MPPT solar controller was another $200 too
